The Colca Canyon hike in Peru: condors and lama’s

The Colca Canyon hike in Peru: condors and lama’s

Backpacking Peru: A travel guide on Hiking the colca canyon for the independent budget traveller

This post is about my experience walking the Colca Canyon hike in Peru and a guide on how to do the Colca Canyon trek either on your own or with a tour.

The Colca Canyon hike can be challenging because of the altitude, but is one of the highlights to a trip to Peru. In Arequipa you come accross a variety of tours to the Colca Canyon. From one day tours that do not include the Colca Canyon hike to 3 day tours that bring you to the heart of the Colca Canyon.

In this post I will share not only my own experience, but also some advice to consider when planning the Colca Canyon hike? Is hiking the colca canyon necessary? Should I book a tour? Can I do the Colca Canyon hike on my own? How many days do I need for the Colca Canyon hike? And how to deal with the Colca Canyon altitude?

My experience on the Colca Canyon trek in Peru

I was sweating and my knees were shaking. The bridge, where the rest of the group was waiting for me, was still far below. It was warm and there was no cloud in sight for some relief from the strong sun. My only comfort was that my loyal guide that I just met a couple of hours ago remained by my side.

I could have known that this hike was not going to be easy. The Colca canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world. In fact, it is twice as deep as the more famous Grand canyon.

Hiking the Colca Canyon with altitude sickness

A combination of altitude sickness with a stomach bug made me one of the slowest hikers that day. The night before when I was still running up and down to the toilet I was thinking about cancelling my tour, but I was stubborn.

I put my alarm clock at the early hour of 3 AM ignoring the protesting sounds of my tummy. Luckily I felt better when I woke up the next morning to exchange my bed for a seat in a small tour bus.

From Arequipa to the Colca Canyon

Despite the early hour Arequipa’s youth was out and about. Young girls and boys stumbled out of bars and discotheques to find their way home. Taxis were waiting eagerly for business while our bus had to maneuver itself through the small streets of Arequipa.

It was a 3 hour drive to the Colca Canyon right through a National Reserve with the highest point reaching an altitude of almost 5000 meters. Most of my travel companions continued their sleep, but I was looking outside. As the sun is rising I discover a bare landscape with some shrubs and the occasional group of lama’s and vicuna’s.

Chivay and the Condors

We had a quick breakfast in Chivay, our first town in the Colca Canyon. The next stop was the Cruz del Condor, the viewpoint where you can see the Condors flying through the canyon. These majestic birds are the reason for our early departure from Arequipa as they are most active between 8 and 9 AM.

Our tour only gives us 15 minutes here. I was sad we are given such little time, but my body is starting to feel the effects of the altitude. We were now above 3500 meters and I felt light headed and tired.

Hiking to San Juan de Chollo

After the Condors we were rushed to the starting point of our trek into the canyon. It was a 4 hour steep descent to the bottom. I was exhausted when we finally arrived at our homestay in San Juan de Chollo. It was a hard day and I was slightly worried for the coming two days knowing that getting out of the canyon means I will have to climb the same distance up that I went down today.

Life in the Colca Canyon

The next day we had an early wakeup call by a small earthquake. I was still a bit shaken from the experience when we started our hike to the next town. Today was much easier, because we were now hiking through the canyon.

As we passed several villages our guide explained how life is changing since there is a connection with the road. There was a lot of construction going on and simple huts were transformed into concrete houses. Besides these visual transformations lives have been improved by better access to education and healthcare.

The Colca Canyon Oasis

That night we sleep in the Oasis, a tourist resort with a pool where all tourgroups gather. It was a huge contrast with our lodge from the previous night that felt more like a homestay in a village. This place is only for tourists and will give you more insight in the lives of backpackers than the local culture.

The Oasis is at the bottom of the steep road out of the Colca canyon and the next day we had another early start to reach the top around sunrise. It was a tough climb and I did not make it before sunrise, but felt I did a good job reaching the top within 3 hours.

Sightseeing in the Colca Canyon

The rest of the day was a somewhat touristic tour past several sites on our way back to Arequipa. After my hike in the canyon it felt a bit unnecessary, but it was nevertheless fun.

In Yanque we visited a beautiful old church and ladies in traditional dresses allowed you to take pictures with their lama’s. Still, the views at the viewpoints we stopped at, could not beat the views I experienced during the hike. It was a tough hike, but for me the best way to get to know about life in the Colca Canyon.

Logistics Hiking the Colca Canyon

The first thing you have to choose is whether you want to do the Colca Canyon independently or with a tour and whether you want to hike into the canyon or not.

Is hiking into the Colca Canyon necessary to visit this area?

A trek into the Colca Canyon is spectacular and if in any way you are able to do this hike you should without doubt. However, if you are really physically not able to hike into the Colca Canyon there are enough places to visit on top of the canyon to explore this area.

In my opinion the towns on top of the Colca Canyon were a bit set up for tourists, but it will still give you an insight into the unique culture of the Colca Canyon. Most tourgroups will stop for less than an hour in the villages so if you have more time and travel by public transport it is easy to have a more authentic experience.

How to travel to the Colca Canyon independently?

Hiking the Colca Canyon does not require a tour and if you plan it well it is possible to do the Colca Canyon hike on your own. This will give you much more freedom and flexibility to explore this region at your own pace.

There is public transport that allows you to travel in between places, but it is not that frequent. Ask around what time the buses leave and plan accordingly.

From Arequipa there are frequent buses to Chivay. From Chivay there are 4 buses per day to Cobanaconde, the startingpoint for the hike into the canyon. In the canyon accommodation is available in the villages San Juan de Chollo, Cosnirhua, Malata and the Oasis.

Personally I liked San Juan de Chollo the most of all villages within the canyon. Therefore, I would recommend 3 days for the hike with a night in San Juan de Chollo and the Oasis. Some people do it in just two days with one night in the Oasis.

If you want to explore other sites such as the Cruz del Condor and Yanque there is infrequent public transport as most people visit these places on a tour.

How to choose your Colca Canyon tour?

In Arequipa there is no shortage of operators offering tours to the Colca Canyon. The tours are of good value (40$ – 50$). Doing it yourself will probably be more expensive. You can choose between a 1 day tour by van or a 2 to 3 day tour hiking. Most tours start at 3 AM to ensure you can see the condors in action at 8 AM.

The 1 day tour by van will mostly stop at some viewpoints and villages on top of the canyon such as Chivay, Yanque and Cobanaconda. The Colca Canyon hike will offer you a much more intimate experience. It is not an easy hike and therefore I would definitely recommend you to take the 3 day tour rather than the 2 day tour. Most 3 day tours stop in San Juan de Chollo for the night, which I thought was a nice village.

I booked my tour through Peru Hop and also visited Ica with them. You can read about my experiences with them here and about my experiences in Ica in my post on Backpacking Ica: Peru’s best kept secret.

Backpacking Peru: A travel guide on Hiking the colca canyon for the independent budget traveller

There are 9 comments for this article
  1. Christina at 6:41 pm

    This sounds like an amazing experience and looks like a beautiful place. I had no idea Colca Canyon is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and the part about being woken up by a small earthquake.. WOW!

  2. Nuraini at 5:03 am

    Woooowwww…. I’m debating how much of Peru I would do for my South America trip end of this year. Undoubtedly I would still be debating right up to the trip itself haha. Definitely will keep this for later though. The condors is what did it for me! And, I’m not sure what my level of fitness is relative to other backpackers so it’s good to know, uh… what happens if you’re not as fast as the others… 😀

  3. Sarah at 8:23 am

    So sad we missed this when we were in Peru – looks incredible! I definitely don’t miss being at altitude though, that was the toughest part of travelling in South America for us.

  4. Ellie Cleary at 12:47 pm

    Great read Ellis, I’ve not walked/hiked in a high altitude area but I can imagine it must be really tough on your body – i’m really impressed you managed to get up at 3am despite not feeling well!!
    This part of the world looks beautiful and I’ll definitely be taking your tips into consideration if I visit Peru one day 🙂 Ellie

  5. Rohan Cahill-Fleury at 9:14 pm

    Wow that looks like an amazing experience! Loving your photos. I’m so looking forward to South America and finding some interesting activities like this to do. Great info for how to get there too 🙂

  6. Julie at 5:47 pm

    Great post & photos! I just did an article on ten amazing places in Peru that are not Machu Picchu — this was one of them. Hope to see it in person some day.

  7. Stefinia at 2:45 pm

    Great snaps!! … Good that you managed the travel and hike inspite the altitude sickness and the tummy bug issue. Also good to see these villages as you hike the Colca canyon. Colca canyon is indeed very deep if its twice as deep as the Grand canyon!! Loved those birds too Condors flying about!!

  8. Waleed Jamshaid at 11:11 am

    Great read Ellis, I’ve not walked/hiked in a high altitude area but I can imagine it must be really tough on your body – i’m really impressed you managed to get up at 3am despite not feeling well!!
    This part of the world looks beautiful and I’ll definitely be taking your tips , loved it <3

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