Back in 2007 when I first visited Jaipur I was…
Almaty is heaven for the outdoors enthusiast. Wherever you are in the city you will see the mountains waiting for you. The snow-capped peaks of the Tien Shan promise a wilderness where bears and snow leopards still roam around. I am not a city person and I constantly felt an itch to explore Kazakhstan’s countryside. Most of Kazakhstan are steppes of which I had seen enough from the trains. But Almaty lies in a small corner, bordering Kyrgyzstan and China, with some of Kazakhstan’s most diverse landscapes.
As a solo backpacker it is unfortunately not that easy to travel around. Public transportation is limited, distances are long and the roads are not the best. Just before I left for this trip Kazakhstan made it to the the dutch version of the World’s most dangerous roads on tv. They drove to the Kolsai lakes. Exactly the place I wanted to go to as well. On internet I found stories of couples that went on adventurous journeys with a combination of shared taxi’s and hitchhiking. If I had a partner in crime I would have been up for this as well, but as a solo female traveller I decided to play it safe. My hostel offered a tour in the weekend to both the Charyn Canyon and the Kolsai lakes.
Kazakhstan’s episode of Worlds most dangerous roads on the dutch television was no joke. There was not much traffic, but what was there had difficulties driving in a straight line. Too much vodka, maybe? The gas station sold no snacks, but had an extensive collection of vodka and beers that ware cheaper than water. The fancy cars you see in the cities are nowhere to be found outside of Almaty. The countryside is like a museum of old cars and tractors who barely survived the Soviet times, some of them not able to drive more than 30 kilometers per hour. Besides slow vehicles to watch out for there is also the occasional loose horse, sheep or cow running around. Out of Almaty the road deteriorates. While our driver tried to avoid holes and cracks we had a few near accidents.
The scenery is beautiful tough with rolling hills changing colours as the sun and clouds play their games in the sky. From green grasslands to red sandstone and barren deserts. My companions were a russian driver, a german police detective, 2 english girls studying Russian, an italian birdlover and his french wife. Igor our driver spoke no english, but wasn’t very talkative in general so this didn’t really make any difference.
After 3 hours of driving we reached the Charyn Canyon. For millions of years winter and water eroded Charyn’s red sandstone in impressive shapes and rock formations. The canyon is about 90 kilometer long and even tough it is smaller than the Grand Canyon it is no less impressive. We walked through the Valley of Castles. A pleasant hike of 4 kilometers with new views around every corner. It didn’t feel like Kazakhstan to me and it was so different from the grasslands above us. The signs in cyrillic and bad english were the only proof i was not in the Grand canyon.
From the red sandstone and the rolling grasslands we drove higher up in the mountains untill the paved road came to an end. Our jeep struggled as we crossed several streams and rivers on our way to Kaindy lake. An eery alpine lake with dead trees sticking out. The lake evolved after an earthquake in 1911 that caused a landslide forming a natural dam. The forest submerged of which the trunks still rise out of the water like spears of a hidden army.
After the adventurous road to Kaindy Lake we reached the small village of Saty where we would stay the night. A collection of small wooden farmhouses surrounded by green meadows and forests of pine trees. The gardens were full of old Russian tractors and farmtools still going strong, although the main mode of transport in the village was the horse. The host in our homestay was a 76-year-old lady who was once a gynecologist. The rest of the evening she showed us all the pictures of her children.
The next day we woke up early for our hike to the Kolsai lakes. It was drizzling outside, but that did not take away the beauty of the first lake. It was an 8 kilometer hike to the second lake. Dressed in a rain poncho and an umbrella I was ready to go. The drizzling turned into rain, but the scenery of the dense pine forests and streams kept me going. It was a gradual climb and sometimes the snowcapped peaks became visible in the distance. But the higher we got the more muddy and slippery the path became untill we had to walk through snow and ice. The second lake was still nowhere in sight so we decided to turn back.
It was a bit of a dissapointment that we did not make it to the second lake, even tough we must have been almost there. Some of us who did not bring rain gear were soaked to the bones. We headed back to our homestay for lunch. Our host lady offered us a huge portion of laghman. The Central Asian version of noodle soup with vegetables and meat. We said goodbye to our host family and prepared ourselves for the long journey back to Almaty. Most of us slept throughout the journey, but the beatiful scenery kept me awake. The real beauty of Kazakhstan is not in the futuristic buildings and show off parks that Nazarbayev builds in the cities, but in the vast wilderness outside.
You can visit The Charyn Canyon and Kolsai Lakes on a tour or independent. To go on your own is not easy, but definetly possible. It requires time tough and patience and involves a combination of hiking, shared taxi’s and hitchhiking.
- Charyn Canyon: there are several companies offering day tours to the canyon, especially in the weekends. Take into account that in the weekends it can get pretty busy in the valley of castles with these tourgroups. If you want to go on your own you can take a shared taxi to Kegen/Saty and ask them to drop you at the turn off for the Charyn Canyon. From there it is a 12 km hike through the grasslands to the entrance of the Valley of Castles. To get back you have to hike the 12 km back to the main road and then hitchhike a ride back to Almaty.
- Kolsai Lakes: to see the Kolsai lakes you need at least 2 to 3 days. From Almaty there is a bus at 7 AM to Saty, but the service is not very reliable. If you miss the bus you can take a shared taxi to Kegen. From there you can use your hitchhiking skills to catch a ride to Saty. In Saty you can take a taxi to the first lake. For more information you can read the detailed description of travelbloggers who managed to get there independently on Lost with a Purpose and travels of a bookpacker
- Kaindy Lake: Kaindy lake is probably the hardest to get to on your own as there is no public transport. You can go to Saty and then take a taxi to the lake, but it is still quite far and the road is in a rather bad condition, especially if it rains.
I organized my tour with Almaty Backpackers Hostel and had a great time. I can recommend them both for accomodation and booking tours. They also offer day tours to the Charyn Canyon, Big Almaty Lake and multi day tours to Altyn Emel National Park.
For those who speak Dutch, the Kazakhstan episode of World’s Most Dangerous roads is here on Youtube