Mountains cover 93% of Tajikistan’s surface. They were the prime reason for me to go to Tajikistan. One of the places I wanted to see were the Fann mountains and the deep blue Iskanderkul lake near the village of Sarytag.
The Fann mountains are maybe less famous than the Pamirs, but they are the third highest range in the world. I went in April when it was still too cold to do some serious hiking. Because Iskanderkul lake and Sarytag are at a relatively low altitude (2195 meters) they were actually my only option to get a taste of the Fann mountains.
It was quite an effort to get to Iskanderkul lake. Most hotels were still closed and my only choice was a homestay in the village of Sarytag. On top of that it was also raining when I travelled and therefore the roads were in a poor condition. We often had to stop because of herders with their sheeps that blocked the narrow path along the lake.
Why visit Iskanderkul lake & Sarytag?
Traveling in Tajikistan can be tiring and getting to Iskanderkul lake can take up most of your day, but it is totally worth the effort. The journey itself is extremely scenic with the barren, but colourful mountains that get more spectacular the closer you get to the lake. There are plenty of reasons why Iskanderkul lake is among the top places to visit in Tajikistan.
It is not for nothing that President Emomali Rahmon has one of his dacha’s on the shore of Iskanderkul lake. Even in the rain it was absolutely beautiful with the deep blue colours that contrast with the surrounding rugged and reddish mountains clouded in the mist.
Iskanderkul literally means the lake of Alexander the Great. Historically it is not sure whether Alexander has ever been there. However, locals believe he did and that one of his favourite horses drowned in the lake during a battle. The local legend is that during full moon the horse comes out at midnight to graze at the shores.
Iskanderkul lake was regarded to be the most beautiful mountain lake in the Soviet Union and remains a popular getaway for those that live in Dushanbe. It is relatively easy to reach from the capital and a perfect place for leisurely day hikes or more challenging hikes
Foreign travellers have now also discovered Iskanderkul lake as a hikers paradise. There are no marked trails yet, but basically anywhere you go you will be rewarded with outstanding mountain sceneries.
If you are lucky you might spot some of its wildlife such as the rare snow leopard or marmots. On my morning walk into the valley of the nearby village of Sarytag I heard some wolves cry and saw bear footprints.
Things to do in Iskanderkul lake
Hiking to the waterfall
From the cluster of hotels at Iskanderkul lake there is an easy 30 minute hike to a waterfall. Ask locals where it starts and then you can follow the well worn trail through a rocky gorge. It is sometimes called the Niagara of the Fann mountains, but this might raise your expectations a bit too much.
Close to Iskanderkul lake is another much smaller lake that is called snake lake (Zmenoe ozero). Because of the higher temperature of the water it is home to a lot of amphibians and reptiles including snakes.
Sarytag & Kanchoch
If you continue along Iskanderkul lake you get to the scenic villages of Kanchoch and Sarytag. From the President’s Dacha it is 5 kilometers up a winding road to the top of a mountain ridge. The road is very poor and bumpy in a car and when walking it is a long and steep climb.
Kanchoch is the first village you will see in the valley below and beyond Kanchoch lies Sarytag. These villages give an insight in rural life in the Fann mountains. The main sources of income are herding sheeps, tourism and remittances from the men working in Russia.
Hiking along the Sarytag river (towards Dukdon Pass)
From Sarytag there are several options for easy day hikes. One is to continue beyond the village of Sarytag along the Sarytag river. It’s a gentle walk through beautiful woodlands.
After about an hour and a half I reached a small settlement with abandoned huts that I think are for herders herding their sheep. I continued a bit more, but as the forest became more dense and it started to rain a bit I decided to return.
If you were to continue you eventually get to the Dukdon pass and it is possible to reach the Zitmud village homestay near Artush in a challenging 3 day hike if you are self sufficient with a tent, food and proper hiking equipment.
These are challenging multiple day treks through remote rugged terrains so a guide is recommended.
Hiking in the Kaznok valley (towards Kaznok pass)
Another possible hike from Sarytag is towards the Kaznok valley. For a gentle day hike you can go as far as you like and eventually return to Sarytag. But, also from here it is possible to reach the Kulikalon lakes and Alaudin lakes in a challenging 5 day trek over the Kaznok pass.
Where to eat at Iskanderkul lake & Sarytag
There are no formal restaurants at the Iskanderkul lake or in Sarytag. Most likely you will eat at your guesthouse.
Expect basic Tajik food. At my guesthouse I had plov for dinner and fried eggs for breakfast. The other night I got fried potatoes and chunks of goat meat.
Where to stay at Iskanderkul lake & Sarytag
During the summer there are plenty of basic hotels at Iskanderkul lake itself or in the scenic villages of nearby Kanchoch and Sarytag.
Very few of them are available to book online. The only hotels that you can reserve through booking.com are Voris Guesthouse in Kanchoch and Hostel on Iskanderkul lake. I didn’t stay in them so I can’t say anything about their facilities and they might not necessarily be the best.
I stayed at Dilovar homestay that I booked through the Zerafshan Tourism Development Association. An excellent organisation for information and tours into the Fann mountains and other destinations in the Zerafshan region.
Dilovars homestay is actually pretty big and feels more like an established trekkers guesthouse than a homestay. He has several new buildings on a large plot of land scenically located at the end of the village of Sarytag. Facilities were basic, but ok for the 2 nights that I stayed there.
How to get to Iskanderkul lake & Sarytag
From Dushanbe’s Cement Zavod taxi stand you can find shared taxi’s to Sarvoda (50 Tajik Somoni as of April 2019). It’s a four hour scenic journey through the rather scary Anzob tunnel.
Sarvoda is a transport hub for transportation into the remote Yagnob valley and to Iskanderkul lake and Sarytag. If you are lucky you might be able to find a shared taxi here that goes to the lake or Sarytag. They do exist, but only if there are enough people.
I arrived in the afternoon and it was off season so it didn’t seem likely that 3 other persons would show up. I ended up taking a private taxi for the cost of 200 Tajik Somoni for the two hour journey.
If this is too much you can always try to hitchhike. Hitchhiking is actually pretty common in Tajikistan and Central Asia, but not for free. It is expected you will pay the driver something. 50 Tajik Somoni per person would be a fair amount for the journey from Sarvoda to the lake or Sarytag.
From Khujand or Penjikent
From both Khujand or Penjikent you need to take a shared taxi to Sarvoda (4 to 5 hours). It is possible that there are no shared taxi’s to Sarvoda and you might need to take a shared taxi that goes all the way to Dushanbe. They will ask you to pay the full fare even though Sarvoda is half way.
From Sarvoda you can take a shared taxi when available or a private taxi.
When to visit Iskanderkul lake & Sarytag
In hindsight April wasn’t the best time to visit Iskanderkul lake. The season hadn’t started yet, hotels were closed and the weather isn’t the best with a high possibility of rain. It rained two days out of the three days I was there.
My original plan was to visit the Yagnob valley as well, but the last day it rained so much that I almost couldn’t reach Sarvoda because the road was washed away by mudslides. Luckily a French couple at the other side of the mudslide gave me a lift as they tried to reach the lake, but decided to turn back.
The trekking season in the Fann mountains runs from June to September and these are the best months to visit Iskanderkul lake. These are the months there is stable and dry weather with pleasant temperatures.
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Ellis is a travelblogger from the Netherlands with over 20 years of experience as an independent budget traveller in more than 50 countries. She has a Master degree in Cultural Anthropology and Global Health with a specialization in South Asian cultures and the Caucasus.