Via Podiensis: Complete Guide to Hiking the Camino Le Puy

This post is about walking the Via Podiensis, also known as the Camino le Puy. The Via Podiensis is one of the main pilgrimage routes in France that lead to Santiago de Compostela.

The Via Podiensis in France goes from le Puy-en-Velay to Saint Jean Pied du Port, where it joins the famous Camino Frances in Spain. It is 750 kilometers of spectacular landscapes, great French cuisine and cute medieval villages with plenty of history and culture.

Why Hike the Via Podiensis

The Via Podiensis is one of the oldest pilgrimage routes in France. It was Bishop Godescalc who, in 951, walked from Le Puy-en-Velay. He was the first French bishop to go on a pilgrimage to the shrine of Saint James. As you hike along the Camino le Puy you will experience a deep sense of history as you follow in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who have walked this same camino before you.

Another reason to choose the Via Podiensis are it’s scenic landscapes and the medieval villages that you pass through. Southern France is beautiful and incredibly diverse. From the rugged countryside of Auvergne to the green rolling hills of the Pyrenees with its Basque influences. Each region has its own traditions and gastronomy to discover.

Compared to the famous Camino Frances, the Via Podiensis tends to be quieter and less crowded. Still, you meet enough fellow pilgrims and interesting people on your way for it to be a social experience as well.

My Via Podiensis itinerary

Most people only walk the first two weeks from Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques as this is supposed to be the most beautiful part of the via Podiensis. But after hiking the full Camino le Puy, I can say that the whole route is well worth the effort.

My Via Podiensis itinerary does not always follow the official stages, because I preferred to stay in the more smaller and rural towns in between and wanted to stay below 25 kilometers per day.

There are nice things to do in Le Puy-en-Velay. Make sure you reserve at least one day to explore this scenic town and the cathedral with its Black Madonna before starting your camino.

Accomodation in Le Puy-en-Velay: Gite d’etappe des Capucins is a great place if you are a pilgrim hiking the camino with cheap dormitory accomodation. Gite la decouverte also offers budget pilgrim accomodation. Logis hotel and Ibis budget are good budget places in case you are not a pilgrim or if you prefer a bit more privacy and comfort than a pilgrim’s hostel.

Walking the Via Podiensis: Camino Le Puy itinerary

Day 1: Le Puy-en-Velay to Montbonnet (16 km)

Although it meant an early start, the morning Mass at Le Puy Cathedral was a very special way to begin my Camino. After a long and elaborate pilgrims’ blessing, the floor of the cathedral opened to reveal a stone staircase leading to the start of the Via Podiensis.

Le Puy Cathedral is built on the slopes of a dormant volcanic hill. The descent through town is immediately followed by a climb into a rural landscape of rolling hills and open fields. Although everyone left the cathedral at roughly the same time and the first hour on the trail was quite busy, the pilgrims soon spread out.

By the time I reached the village of Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaison, I was walking almost entirely on my own, meeting only a handful of other pilgrims along the way. Wanting to ease into the journey, I decided to keep my first day short and stopped in Montbonnet.

Highlights: The church service in le Puy-en-Velay in the morning

Accomodation: Camping Lenti-you (nice place, the tents are very comfortable, but food is rather simple)

Day 2: Montbonnet to Monistrol (17 km)

My second day on the Via Podiensis offered a beautiful variety of landscapes, from open meadows to shaded forest trails. In June, the fields are bursting with wildflowers, painting the countryside in shades of green and yellow.

When I reached the small town of Saint-Privat-d’Allier, I took a short detour to visit its old stone church. From there, the trail climbed once again towards the 13th-century Chapel of Rochegude, perched high on a hill. The views from the ruins of this medieval fortress were spectacular.

After taking in the scenery, the path turned sharply downhill, descending steeply towards Monistrol-d’Allier.

Highlights: Saint-Privat-d’Allier, Chapelle de Rochegude 

Accomodation: Le Repos du Pelerin (very nice food and a great selection of herbal teas from the area. The atmosphere is great with the owner playing guitar and singing french chansons with fellow pilgrims)

Day 3: Monistrol d’Allier to Villeret d’Apchier (24 km)

Leaving Monistrol, the Via Podiensis began with a challenging climb. Not far along, I passed by the atmospheric cave chapel of Saint Madeleine, carved directly into the rock. I paused quietly for a moment, taking in the peaceful atmosphere and the views before continuing on.

Once I reached the top, the trail settled into a much gentler rhythm. The descent into Saugues was easy and scenic, and I arrived hoping to stop at a café for something to eat. Unfortunately, everything had already closed for the day.

I continued on with an empty stomach until I came across a farmhouse that had set up a self-service table with homemade lemonade and cookies. As they say, the Camino provides.

Highlights: Chapelle de Sainte Madeleine, Dinner at Auberge des 2 Pelerins

Accomodation: Auberge des 2 Pelerins (great food and nice place in cute little village, the owners share a lot of their own pilgrim stories)

Day 4: Villeret d’Apchier to le Rouget (18 km)

I left Villeret in the morning and while walking through the fields I suddenly saw a food truck selling mushroom omelettes that smelled wonderful. It was a welcome break before entering the desolate, but beautiful forests of le Sauvage.

The Domaine du sauvage is an ancient monastery and albergue that welcomes pilgrims since the 12th century. I continued to le Rouget where I stayed at a farm.

Highlights: Mushroom omelette at Lou Granjou food truck, Forests around le Sauvage, Domaine du sauvage, Fountain of Saint Roch, Farmstay in le Rouget

Accomodation: Ferme de la Croix du Plo (very nice place on a farm just outside le Rouget that has comfortable dormitories above a cow shed)

Day 5: Le Rouget to Aumont Abrac (18 km)

It was still early when I left my farm hostel, but the bakery in Saint-Alban already had a line of hungry pilgrims stretching out the door. With few places to buy food along today’s route, it was an essential stop to stock up for lunch.

The walk that followed was a gentle one, winding through sunlit fields and quiet villages, offering a picture-perfect glimpse of the French countryside.

Highlights: trying Aligot at ferme du Barry

Accomodation: Ferme du barry (geared towards groups, but friendly service and good facilities and famous for the local delicacy of Aligot, a velvety blend of mashed potatoes and melted cheese.

Day 6: Aumont Abrac to Finieyrols (16 km)

Today’s walk on the Via Podiensis was a short, but memorable stretch through the rolling pastures of the Aubrac plateau, home to the region’s iconic Aubrac cattle. I reached the charming village of Nasbinals by late morning where I picked up some snacks at the local bakery. Then, as quickly as I arrived, I found myself back on the path.

The terrain became wilder, more rugged, framed by wind-swept grasses and forests. This part of the Aubrac is known, not just for its beauty, but for its wildlife as well. Deer roam freely, and the occasional wolf is said to still pass through.

Highlights: church in la chaze de Peyre

Accomodation: La Rose de l’Aubrac (very nice food and garden)

Day 7: Finieyrols to Saint Chely d’Aubrac (24 km)

I am now firmly in the Aubrac region, that is one of the highlights on the Via Podiensis. Aubrac is a high plateau with rolling hills, cow pastures and volcanic stone formations. Sometimes I felt like I was in Scotland or Ireland rather than France when I walked through the wild and desolate landscape.

The Domerie de l’ Aubrac is a short break of civilization and the start of a change in landscape. From the barren highlands to empty forests where I stayed the night at an eco lodge just outside Saint Chely.

Highlights: Aubrac plateau, domerie de l’Aubrac

Accomodation: Ecogite Sarbonnel (nice quiet location and the owner is very friendly)

Day 8: Saint Chely d’Aubrac to Saint Come d’Olt (18 km)

Between the medieval villages of Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac and Saint-Côme-d’Olt, the trail passes through nothing but peaceful forests and open fields, making for a wonderfully quiet day of walking.

I stayed at the Couvent du Malet where the Ursulin nuns have prepared a whole program, including a movie about the history of the convent and the role they once played in educating the children of the village.

The genuine interest of the sisters in the pilgrims backgrounds was heartwarming. After a simple, but lovely dinner I joined the evening prayers. Although I understood little, the singing was beautiful and it gave me some time to reflect on my journey so far.

Highlights: Ancient center of Saint Chely d’Aubrac & Pont des Pelerins 

Accomodation: Couvent du Malet (wonderful stay with the sisters of Couvent du Malet)

Day 9: Saint Come d’Olt to Estaing (18 km)

Today promised to be a short day with some of the most scenic medieval villages along the Camino le Puy. What I did not knew was that the trail from Saint Come d’Olt to Espalion included a long climb up the hill.

With a lot of false summits, I arrived hot and sweaty at the Vierge de Vermus statue of Maria looking down the Lot valley. It was then a steep descent towards the beautiful 12th century Romanesque church of Perse with its sculpted tympanum.

After Espalion, another cute medieval village, the trail becomes more easygoing, passing by the historic Romanesque Church in Bessuejouls and finally Estaing, the most beautiful village of them all.

Highlights: Ancient town of Saint Come d’Olt, Lot river, Vierge de Vermus viewpoint, Eglise de Perse, Ancient town of Espalion, Eglise Saint Pierre, village of Verriéres and the village of Estaing

Insider Tip: If you want to avoid the climb, you can also follow the flat road next to the river making this a very easy path.  

Accomodation: The villages of both Espalion and Estaing are extremely scenic with their medieval architecture and traditional houses and therefore I stayed in both. In Espalion I stayed at Gite d’étappe au fil de l’eau (at the entrance of Espalion) and in Estaing at Gite Saint Christophe (good food, friendly couple that runs the place)

Day 10: Estaing to Espeyrac (through Golinhac 23 km)

From Estaing there are two choices. A trail through Golinhac that follows a lot of paved roads and a longer trail on unpaved roads. Until the junction I was undecided, but I ended up taking the shorter trail. There were indeed a lot of paved roads, but the scenery was still beautiful and I enjoyed my day.

Highlights: nice rural scenery on the trail

Accomodation: Gîte communal d’étape de l’ancienne école d’Espeyrac (clean and comfortable, the building used to be the village school)

Day 11: Espeyrac to Conques (13 km)

From Espeyrac to Conques is a short day of walking on the Via Podiensis. I did this on purpose to make sure I was in time for the special pilgrims church service at 11:00 in Conques.

Conques is a beautiful village and staying at the Abbey of Saint Foy is a special experience. The monks prepared a full program for the pilgrims, including a communal dinner and a light show telling the story of the Holy theft of the relics of Saint Foy.

Highlights: Conques and the Abbay of Saint Foy

Accomodation: Accueil Abbaye de Sainte-Foy (crowded, but a special experience) 

Day 12: Conques to Livinhac le Haut (24 km)

The day began with a long, steep climb out of Conques, one of the most challenging ascents on the Via Podiensis so far. I took a short break at the Chapel of Saint Foy to enjoy the views over the mist-covered hills surrounding Conques. Fortunately, the trail soon levelled out.

After Fonteilles, I decided to continue along the Route Saint-Jacques. Despite its name, this is not the official GR65 route. Instead, the official trail descends into the modern city of Decazeville, a diversion that was reportedly introduced by the local council to encourage tourism.

The route I followed, passing through the small villages of Le Bessenoits and Agnac, is far more scenic. It is also easy to follow, as you simply keep following the Route Saint-Jacques signs. That makes me think this may well have been the original pilgrimage route to begin with.

Highlights: Chapelle Sainte Foy, Chapelle Sainte Roch

Accomodation: Gite La Vita e Bella (great Italian food)

Day 13: Livinhac le Haut to Figeac (24 km)

From Livinhac le Haut to Figeac the trail goes through more scenic rural French landscapes. The Chapelle of Sainte Marie Madeleine de Guirande with its 16th century wall paintings was a welcome stop where I decided to have my lunch break. Then I quickly continued to the beautiful town of Figeac that is well worth exploring. You can check my post about the best things to do in Figeac.

Highlights: Eglise de Montredon, Chapelle of Sainte Marie Madeleine de Guirande, Eglise de Saint Jean Mirabel

Accomodation: Gite du Carmel (Donativo)

Day 14: Figeac to Cajarc (31 km)

From Figeac you basically have three choices to walk to Cahors. The most scenic route is the GR651 Célé valley trail that I truly recommend if you have the time. Otherwise the fastest route is the GR65 through the Lot river valley.

Leaving Figeac you steadily climb to Faycelles and Béduer. At Béduer the GR65 climbs further onto the Quercy Causses, a limestone plateau with ancient dry-stone walls, gariottes and cazelles that farmers used to store grain.

Highlights: Faycelles, Béduer, Caselles, Pech Laglaire dolmen

Accomodation: Gite détappe communal Cajarc

Day 15: Cajarc – Vaylats (35 km)

After Cajarc, the GR65 gradually climbs onto the Causse Blanc. As you walk through this quiet rural landscape, keep an eye out for the ancient dolmens scattered across the plateau, particularly around Limogne-en-Quercy.

Many pilgrims choose to stop for the night in Limogne-en-Quercy, Varaire, or Bach. Continuing on to Vaylats makes for a long day’s walk, but it offers the opportunity to spend the night in the historic Convent of Vaylats.

Highlights: ancient dolmens around Limogne-en Quercy, convent of Vaylats

Accomodation: If this stage is too long you can break it up in Limogne-en-Quercy where you can stay in Gite d’étappe Au Bon Marche. Staying in Vaylats at the ancient Couvent de Vaylats is a special experience.

Day 16: Vaylats to Cahors (26 km)

From Vaylats the Via Podiensis continues on the Causse de Limogne, following the Roman Cami Ferrat that linked Rocamadour with the south of France. It was a day of quiet paths through oak forests with moss covered trees, but also an increase in tarmac roads the closer I got to Cahors.

Cahors is one of the bigger cities on the Via podiensis, but has a nice medieval center worth exploring in the afternoon.

Highlights: medieval old town of Cahors

Accomodation: Le deuxieme Souffle (very friendly owner that cooked delicious food, hostel is also very clean and nice)

Day 17: Cahors to Lascabanes (23 km)

The Via Podiensis leaves Cahors by crossing the ancient Pont Valentré bridge. After a steep climb out of the Lot Valley, the trail continues through a beautiful landscape of farmland and forests.

Lascabanes is a small village, and its only gîte is located right next to the church. When I joined the 6 p.m. evening Mass, I soon discovered that it is a local tradition for the priest to bless the pilgrims and wash their feet. It was one of the most memorable experiences of my journey along the Via Podiensis.

Highlights: Pont Valentré bridge, the village of Labastide Marnhac, the washing of the feet ceremony in the church of Lascabanes

Accomodation: Gite d’étappe le Nid Des Anges (lovely place in the old presbytery and next to the church)

Day 18: Lascabanes to Lauzerte (25 km)

From Lascabanes to Lauzerte it was another lovely day through the quiet countryside of France. Midway is the fortified village of Montcuq with its medieval tower. A lovely town with some charming narrow streets and some nice places to eat before the long stretch to Lauzerte.

Like Montcuq, Lauzerte is another medieval hilltop town from the 12th century with lovely french architecture and cobbled stoned streets.

Highlights: village of Montcuq and Lauzerte

Accomodation: Gite d’étappe Abeille Lulu

Day 19: Lauzerte to Moissac (28 km)

From Lauzerte to Moissac, it was a long day. Although there were no steep climbs, the trail constantly rose and fell. I’m still deep in the French countryside, but the landscape is gradually changing from open farmland to small vineyards and apple orchards.

The morning was a pleasant walk, and I took a short break at the Church of Saint Martin. In the afternoon, the descent into the Tarn Valley and the approach to Moissac involved a lot of walking on paved roads. The urban outskirts seemed to go on forever. As one of the most important historic towns on the French Camino, I had expected more, and at first, Moissac didn’t leave much of an impression.

That changed the moment I arrived at the beautiful Saint-Pierre Abbey, where I arrived just in time to witness Moissac’s unique Pentecost celebrations. In this centuries-old tradition, the relics of Saint Cyprien are carried in procession to the River Tarn, where prayers are offered for rain and a good harvest. The town was filled with a festive atmosphere, and pilgrims were warmly welcomed to join both the church service and the procession to the river.

Highlights: Chapel of Saint-Sernin-du-Bosc, Church of Saint Martin, Abbaye Saint-Pierre de Moissac,

Accomodation: L’Ancien Carmel de Moissac

Day 20: Moissac to Auvillar (22 km)

Walking out of Moissac, I was still in a festive mood after yesterday’s Pentecost celebrations. Today promised to be a hot day, with temperatures expected to rise above 30°C.

From Moissac to Pommevic, the trail follows the canal, making for a long, flat, and straight walk. I was grateful for the shade provided by the trees and the cooling breeze from the River Tarn.

After Pommevic, the route led through open fields with little shelter from the sun. The steep climb up to Auvillar was hot, sweaty, and a real challenge in the afternoon heat.

Highlights: Tarn river, nice church in Pommevic, Auvillar grain storage

Accommodation: Gite d’etape le Par Chemin in Espalais or Gite d’étape La P’tite Graine in Auvillar

Day 21: Auvillar to Lectoure (33 km)

Hiking from Auvillar to Lectoure was a day with a lot of paved roads, but also a lot of lovely farmfields. Although I normally dislike paved roads, this stage felt isolated, peaceful and rural. There were some nice villages too, such as San Antoine and Flamarens.  

Highlights: medieval village of Saint Antoine and church with painted ceiling, Chateau Flamarens, beautiful town of Lectoure

Accomodation: If you can stay at Chateau Flamarens I can recommend it, even though it breaks up this stage in two short days. Staying at the castle is a wonderful experience. In Lectoure the cheapest option is the Accueil Presbytere run by a group of friendly volunteers

Day 22: Lectoure to La Romieu (18 km)

From Lectoure I could chose a more direct route to Condom or a detour through the cat village of la Romieu with its beautiful cloister church. As I love cats I decided to stop at la Romieu. Unfortunately I did not see any real cats, but it was indeed a lovely old town where I could not stop taking pictures. 

Highlights: the cat village of La Romieu and its cloister church

Accommodation: La refuge du pelerin

Day 23: La Romieu to Larressingle (19 km)

From La Romieu it was a pleasant hike through sunflower fields to the beautiful village of Castelnau sur l’Auvignon and then the larger town of Condom.

After Condom I chose for another detour to the fortified medieval town of Larresingle. Just like La Romieu it belongs to the plus beaux villages de France.

It was only 2 kilometers extra and well worth the effort. A small beauty and the pilgrims’ albergue was a very peaceful place to stay. 

Highlights: village of Castelnau sur l’Auvignon, Chapelle Saint Germain, Condom cathedral and statue of the three musketeers, village of Larressingle

Accommodation: La Halte de Larressingle

Day 24: Larressingle to Lamothe (24 km)

Somewhere today is the point where there’s only 1000 kilometers left to Santiago de Compostela. Just down the road from Larresingle there is a sign, but at the end of the day the pilgrims albergue in Lamothe claims the same. 

Even though I definitely hiked 24 kilometers through farmfields and shaded greenways with only a quick lunch break in the scenic village of Montréal-du-Gers. Either way I still have around 1000 kilometers to go.

Highlights: village of Montréal-du-Gers

Accommodation: Gite d’étape les mille bornes

Day 25: Lamothe to le Haget (23 km)

Over the last few days, I’ve got into the habit of staying in the smaller villages in between, rather than in the larger towns that are the official starting and finishing points in the guidebooks.

I’m really enjoying the rural solitude of France. The larger towns of Eauze and Manciet were both nice, but I was surprised to find a bullring in Manciet. It gave me the feeling that I was getting closer to Spain.

Once again, I chose to stay out in the countryside, this time at a horse-riding school surrounded by vineyards. From there, I caught my first glimpse of the Pyrenees in the far distance.

Highlights: Traditional houses in Eauze, Bullring in Manciet

Accommodation: Le relais du Haget

Day 26: le Haget to Aire sur l’ Adour (32 km)

As I walked towards Nogaro through the vineyards in the early morning, I was once again treated to beautiful views of the Pyrenees.

Nogaro also has a bullring, and with the mountains in sight, I got a little too excited. After Nogaro, however, came a long and rather boring stretch, following a busy road towards Aire-sur-l’Adour.

It was another disappointment to discover that my hostel was on the other side of town, at the top of a hill. By the time I arrived, I was exhausted, but I received a warm welcome. I immediately felt better when I saw the beautiful former Ursuline chapel where I would be spending the night.

Highlights: Bullring and Saint Nicholas church in Nogaro, Cathedral Saint Jean Baptiste in Aire sur l’ Adour

Accommodation: Chapelle des Ursulines

Day 27: Aire sur l’ Adour to Arzacq Arraziguet (33 km)

From Aire-sur-l’Adour to Arzacq-Arraziguet, it was a long but beautiful day, walking along quiet country lanes and through wide-open farmland. After several days of mostly flat terrain, my legs had to get used to the ups and downs again as I made my way towards the hilltop village of Pimbo and on to Arzacq-Arraziguet.

Arzacq-Arraziguet is a small village, and before I knew it, I had already left town again. I continued a little farther to a donativo camp hostel, where I slept wonderfully in a tent right next to the cornfields.

Highlights: village of Miramont Sensacq and Pimbo

Accomodation: Camp hostel

Day 28: Arzacq Arraziguet to Arthez-de-Béarn (29 km)

The morning started beautifully, with a soft mist covering the countryside. As I left Arzacq Arraziguet, the landscape became more hilly and I could really feel that I was getting closer to the Pyrenees.

The day felt long, but the changing scenery kept it interesting. The mist eventually disappeared, but unfortunately so did the good weather. By the time I arrived in Arthez-de-Béarn, it was pouring with rain. I was tired and soaked when I arrived at the pilgrims albergue, but I received a warm welcome at Gite Boulangerie Brousse .

Highlights: Chapelle de Caubin

Accomodation:Gite Boulangerie Brousse

Day 29: Arthez-de-Béarn to Navarrenx (30 km)

From Arthez-de-Béarn to Navarrenx, the landscape was changing gradually. I left the cornfields and goose farms of the Landes behind me and now walked through the rolling green hills. 

Midway I stopped at the abbey of Sauvelade for a quick lunch break. After a long day I was glad to see the old city walls of Navarrenx. 

Highlights: Abbey of Sauvelade, Old City walls of Navarrenx

Accomodation: Le cri de la Girafe

Day 31: Navarrenx to Aroue/Landaco (22 km)

The Pyrenees were no longer a distant view on the horizon. I’m right in the middle of them now and at the same time I was stepping into the Basque Country. The houses were changing too, with white façades and bright red shutters. 

I was glad that the owners of the gite informed me that I had to bring bread to try the delicious pates from Jean Haget. A rather unremarkable building next to the road that I would have otherwise passed by, but indeed had delicious pates for sale. 

Highlights: Trying pate at Jean Haget (bring your own baguette)

Accommodation: Landaco eco-gite

Day 32: Aroue – Ostabat (23 km)

Green hills, accompanied by the sound of cowbells and sheep in the background, characterized the stage from Aroue to Ostabat.

About halfway through the stage, I reached the point where the Camino Le Puy meets the Camino Vézelay. Immediately afterwards, there was a steep climb up to the Chapel of Soraya, where I was rewarded with a beautiful view over the French Basque Country.

Ostabat was a typical Basque village, where white houses with red shutters dominated the landscape. Gîte Izarrak was located just outside the village and was a wonderful place to relax and recover after a day of walking.

Highlights: Chapel of Soyarza

Accommodation: Gite Izarrak

Day 33: Ostabat – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (23 km)

The morning started misty and rainy, but somehow that suited the landscape. The closer I got to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the less rural the surroundings became, and more and more of my route continued along paved roads.

It was my last day of walking in France, and because of that, the day felt a little bittersweet. Before I knew it, I was standing in front of the gateway to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. It felt like both an ending and a new beginning. The Via Podiensis ended here, and the Camino Francés began.

Highlights: church in Saint Jean le Vieux

Accomodation: Gite Beilari

The Via Podiensis Travel Tips

Accomodation on the Via Podiensis

The Via Podiensis is one of the most frequented pilgrim routes in France. Most towns on the Camino le Puy have gite d’etappes, especially for pilgrims as well as more expensive bed and breakfasts or hotels. Almost all pilgrim hostels offer a demi-pension package that includes dinner and breakfast.

Costs for the pilgrim albergues are usually between 40 to 50 euro a night. This is more expensive than on the Spanish Camino, but considering the elaborate dinners and the quality of the accomodations, I believe it is very good value for money. Dormitories are small and facilities are clean and modern. For me, the delicious french dinners were a highlight of my Via Podiensis experience.

Another difference with the camino in Spain is that I do recommend to reserve your accomodation beforehand. The Via Podiensis is getting more popular and most of the hostels where I stayed were all fully booked. I met hikers that had no reservations and had a difficult time finding a place to sleep. The hostels themselves also prefer you reserve your place beforehand, because they want to know for how many people they should prepare dinner.

Donativo accomodations that are based on a voluntary contribution are rare on the Via Podiensis, but a few do exist. Remember that donativo does not mean free and it is good to give a fair amount for the costs and the time that the amazing people that run donativo have to spend to welcome hungry and tired pilgrims.

I made a special post about my favourite Pilgrims accomodation on the Via Podiensis

Pilgrims Accomodation etiquette on the Via Podiensis

Most pilgrim hostels only open their doors from 3 or 4 pm onwards. Once they open, most of them will first do the registration. You will pay, get your stamp in your pilgrims credencial and then you can choose your bed in the dormitory.

Hiking shoes and hiking sticks should stay outside and most hotels on the Via Podiensis won’t even allow your backpack into the dormitory to prevent bedbugs. Because of that, you get a small basket to bring your essential items only and your bags are safely stored outside in a locker room.

Most hostels will provide a sheet and a pillow cover, but you will need your own sleeping bag. At night, the hostels were warm enough that a light summer sleeping bag was sufficient. Most hostels have a special area for washing and drying clothes.

Dinner will be around 7 pm with all the pilgrims and will therefore be a nice moment to meet other people. That said, french pilgrims will be the majority. Although some do try to engage you in the conversation by speaking english, their english language skills diminish as the evening progresses, especially when there is wine on the table. Nevertheless, I have fond memories of the communal meals.

Breakfast starts around 6 or 7 AM and hostels sometimes explicitly ask you to be gone by 8 or 9 AM, so that they can clean and prepare for new pilgrims.

Food on the Via Podiensis

Food was one of the highlights on the Via Podiensis. Although restaurants are not that common on the Via Podiensis, all pilgrim hostels offer a demi-pension package that includes dinner and breakfast. So the communal meal at your hostel is often your only choice, but I have fond memories of the pilgrim dinners where I got to try local specialities like Puy lentil stew, Aligot (mashed potatoes with cheese) and Truffade (Baked Potatoes with herbs and cheese).

Compared to the elaborate dinners, breakfast was a rather simple affair with bread and jam. Due to the demi-pension packages it was never a problem finding dinner or breakfast. Lunch was a different story.

On my first day, I had to learn the hard way that most shops and restaurants close down for a midday break from 12:00 to 15:00, even in the larger towns. From then on I checked the Miam Miam Dodo more thoroughly for places to eat.

Soon enough, I developed the habit to visit the lokal bakery or grocery store first thing in the morning and buy myself a french baguette or other delicacy for on the road. French bakeries are extremely good and often sell baguettes with cheese and/or ham and delicious pastries.

Water: In general it was easy to find water, but in some of the isolated stages it was more difficult. I recommend to always make sure you fill your water bottles in the morning and carry at least 1.5 liters of water with you. In case you run out water you can almost always fill up your water bottles at the village cemeteries or the town halls where you can also often find public toilets.

Transport on the Via Podiensis

How to get there: It is easy to reach le Puy en Velay by train. Coming from Paris you need to switch trains in St-Etienne-Châteaucreux. Once on the Via Podiensis you will find train stations in Figeac, Cahors, Moissac and Saint Jean Pied du Port. From there it is also easy to get a train to Paris. You can check the timetables and book your tickets on SNCF. The earlier you book, the cheaper your tickets.

How to get around: public transport in between villages is very limited. Pilgrims can use, the rather expensive, Compostel bus that has a daily service from Le Puy en Velay to Conques and back stopping in the most important pilgrim villages along the Camino Le Puy. Alternatively you can contact the companies that arrange luggage transfer services that can also transport passengers if needed.

A few local buses do exist connecting some of the villages on the Camino le Puy with larger towns nearby. Below you can find an overview of available public transport options with bus numbers

Luggage Transport on the Via Podiensis

The most famous luggage transport company on the first half of the Via Podiensis is the Malle Postale. The Malle Postale runs from le Puy en Velay up till Aire sur l’Adour.

For the second half of the Via Podiensis from Figeac to Saint Jean Pied du Port You have Claudine and from Cahors to saint Jean Pied du Port you have Les Valises de Saint Jacques.

Navigation along the Via Podiensis

The Via Podiensis is well marked with red and white signs. Therefore, it is possible to walk the Camino le Puy without a guidebook or app. However, to avoid getting lost, it is always good to have some back up way to navigate.

I downloaded the GPX tracks here. You can open gpx tracks using a GPS app such as gpx viewer or komoot. In addition I used the Buen Camino app.

Safety on the Via Podiensis

I found the Via Podiensis to be a very safe trail. Crime is rare and opportunistic petty theft in albergues is easy to prevent by keeping your valuables close. The trail is very well marked and even though there are some isolated areas, there are enough pilgrims that you are never completely alone.

The main safety hazards come down to navigation, physical injuries and weather events. I recommend to download one of the navigation apps mentioned above.

You can prevent physical injuries to some extent by not overestimating yourself. Listen to your body and start with short stages, gradually building your strength. Although there are pharmacies in the bigger cities, they are not always available in the smaller villages. Therefore it is good to carry a basic first aid kit with you.

At the higher elevations, especially at the Aubrac plateau, the weather can change rapidly. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and carry the proper hiking gear to protect yourself from exposure to both rain and sun. At last, always make sure you carry enough water with you.

Solo Female Travel on the Via Podiensis

I hiked the Via Podiensis as a Solo Female Traveller and in my experience it was very safe. I never felt uneasy or unsafe and I met a lot of other solo female pilgrims. In general, the majority of hikers on the Camino le Puy are women.

The Via Podiensis Travel Planning

How to Prepare for the Via Podiensis

Training: Some people have a training schedule to build their endurance before hiking the Via Podiensis. I did not do this, but I spend my weekends doing day hikes with my fully packed backpack. This helped a lot in adjusting my backpack before the trip so that it was comfortable.

Book your Accomodation: Accomodation on the Via Podiensis works differently from the Spanish Camino. Pilgrim hotels offer a demi-pension package that includes dinner and breakfast. As they want to know for how many people they should prepare food, you need to reserve your place beforehand. I met pilgrims without reservations that had a hard time finding a place to sleep or eat.

Learn basic French: french is the main language on the Via Podiensis. For people that do not speak french, it can feel a bit lonely at times. It really helps if you learn the basics through Duo Lingo beforehand.

Buy the proper gear: if this is the first time you do a multi day hike, you probably need to invest in your hiking gear. There are a lot of fancy and expensive items out there, but in the end you don’t need that much. I will share more tips on investing in your hiking gear below.

Buying Hiking Gear for the Via Podiensis

Less is more on a multi day hike like the Via Podiensis and more expensive does not always mean better. What is best is what fits you personally. I recommend to go to a local outdoor store and try on a few things.

There are a few items that are worth investing money in. That is a good hiking backpack and comfortable hiking shoes that fit you well. These items have a big influence on the comfort of your trek on the Via Podiensis and it is important you try them out before you go.

Start wearing your shoes frequently on walks to break them in and try out the backpack when fully loaded. It is better to bring old tested shoes with you than brand new shoes that might give you blisters.

At last, I love merino wool tshirts, because they are lightweight, dry quickly and don’t smell. For me, they are worth the extra money. You don’t need more than 2 sets of clothes and lightweight materials will reduce your pack weight. Think layers to adjust easily to differences in temperatures.

For more tips what to bring you can check out my Camino Packing List for women.

When to Walk the Via Podiensis

Spring: May and June are the best months to walk the Via Podiensis. The weather is typically mild, with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. The landscape is lush and green and the wildflowers are in bloom.

Summer: The summer months see the highest number of pilgrims, which can lead to crowded accommodations and more limited availability in smaller towns along the Via Podiensis. The weather can also be very hot with temperatures that can easily exceed 30°C.

Autumn: By September, the summer rush starts to dwindle, offering a more tranquil experience with fewer pilgrims. The weather remains pleasant till the end of October, with daytime temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C. From November onwards, pilgrim facilities start to close down for the winter.

Winter: Winter is not the best time to hike the Via Podiensis. Not only because of the cold temperatures, especially on the Aubrac Plateau, but also because many pilgrim services close down from November until April.

Resources on the Via Podiensis

There are an increasing number of books about the Camino. I wrote a specific post with the best books about the Camino le Puy. The resources below have helped me a lot in preparing for the Via Podiensis.

Miam Miam Dodo: the French Miam Miam Dodo is the most up to date and useful guidebook on the Camino le Puy. Although it is in French, the detailed maps with where to eat and sleep on the Via Podiensis, speak for itself. Especially the places where to eat, became useful to look up when I was on the road.

Websites: Gronze and Podiensis (french) are two sites that helped me a lot in preparing my hiking trip on the via Podiensis. It helped me to find accomodation and online contact information to make reservations beforehand.

Internet Forums: The Camino de Santiago Forum is a wealth of information about the camino. It’s easy to get overwhelmed with the lengthy discussions about the best shoes, socks, backpacks, packing tips, lightweight gear etc. Nevertheless, some of the advice from experienced camino hikers turned out to be very useful.

Apps: The Buen Camino app is a useful app that I used a lot on my camino. It includes both the Camino le Puy and the Camino Frances. Camino Ninja is another app that I personally found less practical, but also has maps and information about the Via podiensis.

Sustainable Travel on the Via Podiensis

Although the Via Podiensis is not as popular as the Spanish Camino, tourism is increasing. Traveling sustainably on the Camino le Puy is essential to minimize your environmental impact and preserve the area’s natural beauty for future generations.

Leave no trace principle: When hiking the via podiensis, stick to designated trails to protect the environment. Straying off the marked paths can cause soil erosion and damage to plant life.

I encourage you to take all your trash back with you and dispose of it responsibly. In other words, leave no trace of your visit. It is even better when you bring something to pick up any of the trash that other people left behind.

To avoid single-use plastics, invest in reusable items. For example, you can bring your own water bottle. At last, use biodegradable and eco-friendly personal care products.

Disclaimer: This post with a travel guide about walking the Via Podiensis GR65 trail on the French Camino le Puy contains affiliate links. If you buy any service through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me to keep Backpack Adventures alive! Thanks for your support!