The Best Things to do in Le Puy-en-Velay, France
This post is about the best things to do in le Puy-en-Velay. Le Puy-en-Velay is a beautiful town in France’s Auvergne region. The region is famous for its hilly and volcanic landscapes, including unusual towering basalt formations.
But it’s not only the beautiful location and scenery of the Haute-Loire that makes Le Puy worth a visit. With its long history as one of Europe’s oldest pilgrimage centers there are plenty of things to do in Le Puy-en-Velay.
Why visit Le Puy en Velay
Le Puy-en-Velay has a long history that dates back to prehistoric times when neolithic ancestors found refuge in the volcanic caves and hills. The town with its volcanic plug rock formations was once a holy site for both Celtic worship and later Roman cults.
Christianity was introduced by a certain Saint George who built an altar to the Virgin Mary in Le Puy-en-Velay, but it was Bishop Godescalc in 951 that connected Le Puy to the pilgrim’s path to Santiago de Compostela. He was the first French bishop to go on a pilgrimage to the shrine of Saint James in Santiago and upon his return ordered the construction of several christian monuments.
The importance of Le Puy-en-Velay as a pilgrimage site grew throughout the Middle Ages. The Cathedral of Our Lady of Le Puy was built in the 12th century and became the starting point of the Via Podiensis. Pilgrims would visit to receive a blessing or carry out specific religious rites before heading to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
Even today, many pilgrims start their journey along the Via Podiensis in Le Puy, giving the town a special atmosphere.
Things to do in Le Puy en Velay
Visit the Cathedral of Le Puy en Velay
The Notre-Dame Cathedral stands on top of the town’s volcanic hill and is one of the main things to do in Le Puy-en-Velay. What makes the cathedral special is that the hill, known as Mount Anis, has been a place of worship before Christianity arrived.
Mount Anis was home to a Druidic stone altar. The Romans even built a small temple around the dolmen. When Christians started to build the cathedral they did not remove the holy stone. A legend tells of a young lady that got ill with fever and that had a vision in which the virgin mary told her to lie down on the holy stone. She did and was instantly healed, but claims the virgin asked for her own church on Mount Anis.
The Fever stone still has a central place in Le Puy’s cathedral and keeps attracting pilgrims believing in its healing powers. The cathedral is also home to one of the rare black madonnas in France. The origin of the Black Madonna is a bit of a mystery, but one theory links the black madonnas to pagan earth goddesses that symbolize fertility, others believe they are an ancient representation of the Egyptian goddess of Isis with her child Horus.
Le Puy-en-Velay and the cathedral is now part of the UNESCO-listed Routes of Santiago de Compostela and is a key pilgrimage stop where pilgrims receive their blessing before embarking on their journey on the Via Podiensis.
Climbing the rock of Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe
The area around Le Le Puy-en-Velay is famous for its volcanic plug rock formations. The Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe Chapel was built in 969 atop such a rock, offering panoramic views over the town and the surrounding hills. It was built by Bishop Godeshalc after his successful return from his pilgrimage to Santiago.
To visit the chapel with its beautiful frescoes you have to climb over 250 steps. Just as with the cathedral of Le Puy, there used to be a holy dolmen on this rock before the construction of the christian chapel. The Romans built a temple around the dolmen dedicated to the god Mercury.
Parts of the holy rocks were incorporated in the construction of the chapel that is now dedicated to Saint Michael.
Visit the Chapelle Saint Claire d’Aiguilhe
Close to the church of Saint Michel d’Aigulhe is the small chapel of Saint Claire d’Aiguilhe. It was constructed in the late 12th century and served as the funeral chapel of the Saint-Nicolas Hospital that also played a role in catering to pilgrims.
Admire the Notre Dame statue of Le Puy en Velay
The Notre Dame statue in Le Puy-en-Velay is a relative newcomer to the scene. It was built in 1860 from 213 Russian cannons seized during the Siege of Sevastopol in the Crimean Wars. The cast iron statue is quite impressive with its 22.7 meters atop Corneille Rock. You can climb inside the statue fot beautiful views over the town.
Chapel of the White Penitents
Le Puy-en-Velay has one of the few still active brotherhoods of the White Penitents in France. The White Penitents (“Pénitents Blancs”) were lay Catholic brotherhoods of ordinary townspeople, active from the Middle Ages onwards. The members dedicated themselves to prayer, charity, and acts of penance. They cared for the sick and poor, often running hospitals or helping during plagues and also took part in religious processions.
The Penitents were called “white” because of their white robes and hoods worn during processions. The hooded robes symbolized anonymity as penitents weren’t supposed to seek recognition for their good deeds.
The brotherhood in Le Puy still has around 45 active members that participate every year in a religious procession through town on Good Friday. The chapel of the white penitants is interesting to see for its paintings on the ceiling.
Musée Crozatier
Le Puy-en-Velay has a museum as well in case you are looking for something to do on a rainy day. The Musée Crozatier offers exhibitions on archaeology, fine arts, regional crafts as well as the natural sciences.
Wander the historic streets
One of my favourite things to do in Le Puy-en-Velay was simply wandering around the medieval center. The Old Town’s cobbled streets and colorful houses are very picturesque. Le Puy is famous for its handmade lace that you can buy in the town’s artisan shops. Everywhere you will also see the scallop shell signs of the Camino to Santiago.
Visit the Saturday market
Every Saturday there is a vibrant market at Place du Plot where local merchants sell their fresh produce. It’s a feast of regional cheeses, charcuterie, and the famed “Lentilles Vertes du Puy”.
Try local delicacies
Le Puy-en-Velay is famous for its Le Puy lentils. These small, mottled green lentils are a signature ingredient, cultivated here for more than 2,000 years. Thanks to the volcanic soil and unique microclimate, they develop a delicate, nutty flavor. The French use the lentils in salads, soups, as a side dish, or in hearty plates like salted pork and lentils.
Another legendary dish of the Auvergne that you should try in Le Puy is Aligot. Aligot is a creamy, cheese-blended mashed potato with garlic that achieves a wonderfully stretchy, velvety texture.
Start your Camino in Le Puy-en-Velay
Since the Middle Ages, Le Puy’s Cathedral of Notre-Dame du Puy has been a major pilgrimage site. Pilgrims came to venerate the Black Madonna, and from there many continued on toward Santiago de Compostela.
The road from Le Puy is called the Via Podiensis and is one of the four main French routes described in the 12th-century pilgrim guide, the Codex Calixtinus. Because of this history, Le Puy is recognized by UNESCO as part of the World Heritage of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
Thousands of pilgrims begin here every year on their journey to Santiago. The Via Podiensis is often called the most beautiful and varied of the French caminos due to its beatiful landscapes, medieval towns and Romanesque churches.
End your Camino in Le Puy-en-Velay
Most people start their camino in Le Puy-en-Velay, but it is also possible to end your camino in Le Puy-en-Velay. The less famous, but equally beautiful and historic Cluny Camino runs from the ancient town of Cluny to Le Puy-en-Velay
Hike the Stevenson Trail
Le Puy-en-Velay is also the start of another famous and beautiful hiking route in France.The Stevenson trail or the GR70 follows the footsteps of Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson who went out hiking in Southern France through the Cévennes with his donkey.
Le Puy en Velay Travel Tips
Where to sleep in Le Puy en Velay
Pilgrims accommodation: Gite d’etappe des Capucins is a great place if you are a pilgrim hiking the camino with cheap dormitory accomodation. Gite la decouverte also offers budget pilgrim accomodation.
Hotel: Logis hotel and Ibis budget are good budget places in case you are not a pilgrim or if you prefer a bit more privacy and comfort than a pilgrim’s hostel.
Where to eat in Le Puy en Velay
Coco & Rico: a small, but budget friendly place to eat with good food
Au Bon Endroit: nice and quiet location opposite the chapel of Saint Michelle d’Aguilhe with local french food.
How to get to Le Puy en Velay
It is easy to reach Le Puy-en-Velay by train. From Paris you can take the TGV to Lyon or Saint Etienne where you can transfer to the local TER train to Le Puy. You can check the timetables and book your tickets on SNCF. The earlier you book, the cheaper your tickets.
When to visit Le Puy en Velay
To avoid the summer heat and crowds, I recommend visiting Le Puy-en-Velay in Spring (April -June) and Autumn (September-October) when the weather is mild and there are fewer tourists. Spring has blooming flowers, while autumn has golden landscapes and the grape harvest.
In mid-September, the Fête du Roi de l’Oiseau (King of the Bird Festival) brings the 16th century back to life with archery contests, craftsmen, costumed pageantry, and medieval fare and drinks like spiced hypocras
Every August 15th, Assumption Day brings candlelit processions honoring the Black Madonna with thousands of participants—an evocative spiritual and symbolic spectacle
Disclaimer: This post about the best things to do in Le Puy-en-Velay contains affiliate links. If you buy any service through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me to keep Backpack Adventures alive! Thanks for your support!