Backpacking Lebanon: the different faces of the middle east.

Backpacking Lebanon: A backpackers travel guide with the best things to see and do in Lebanon for independent budget travellers

Backpacking Lebanon was not on my radar untill a friend showed me pictures of his last trip.  He convinced me to go with him or was it me convincing him to visit Lebanon again? Either way we were both looking forward to travel to this fascinating country.

Backpacking Lebanon turned out an incredibly beautiful experience. There was so much variety that during my week it felt like I was in a different country every day.

Ancient history, green hills, delicious food, some of the best Roman ruins in the world and middle eastern bazaars where you can shop till you drop. Lebanon has it all.

Lebanon Sidon

A travel guide to backpacking Lebanon: A one week itinerary

Cosmopolitan Beirut (1-2 days)

Beirut is a liberal and cosmopolitan city and used to be called the Paris of the Middle East untill sectarian violence between the different religious groups caused a civil war lasting 15 years from 1975 till 1990. The city has recovered and is returning to its former glory with a brand new center full of expensive designer stores.

Lebanon Beirut

Before exploring Lebanon, take your time to explore Beirut with all of its diverse neighbourhoods such as lively Ashrafieh, posh Gemmayze and hip Hamra. All vibrant areas with nice shops and restaurants, but each with its own unique culture and atmosphere.

I liked my visit to the Al Amina mosque, the peaceful gardens surrounding the American University of Beirut and Corniche. The boulevard near the sea where families go out to enjoy the sunset and see the famous pigeon rock.

Logistics: Getting around Beirut is easy. There are minivans and shared taxi’s. A shared ride is called a servees and the driver will pick up and drop off other passengers on the way. You just tell the driver your destination and he will either accept you if he is going the same way or not if your destination is too far off. Depending on the distance it costs between 2000 or 3000 LBP.

Beirut is also the perfect place to explore Lebanon. Because Lebanon is not a big country it is easy to visit most places as a daytrip from Beirut. For destinations outside of Beirut there is the Cola intersection with buses heading south of the country and Charles Helou for buses heading north of the country.

Lebanon Beirut

Daytrip to Ancient Byblos

Byblos is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world and the place with the first inscriptions of the modern western alphabet. It is full of history with Roman ruins and a medieval port. Nowadays Byblos is a small town that is predominantly christian. It has lots of character with its seaside location, restored bazaar and old Roman fort. From the cute mediterrean port you can take boat trips to the sea.

Logistics: from Beirut’s Cola intersection & Charles Helou station there are frequent buses to Byblos, also known by locals as Jbeil (1 hour).

Lebanon Byblos
Lebanon Byblos

Daytrip to Jounieh & Harissa

Just south of Byblos in Jounieh you can take a cable car up the mountain to Harissa where you can visit Our lady of Lebanon. It’s a popular spot for Lebanese tourists and it is easy to see why. The view on the sea and the town below is stunning. If you go during sunset it is a magical place.

Logistics: You can easily combine this with a daytrip to Byblos. The buses between Byblos and Beirut pass through Jounieh, ask the driver to let you out in Jounieh and walk to the cable car.

Lebanon Byblos
Lebanon Byblos

Daytrip to Saida: Strolling through Sidon’s bazaar

Lebanon is such a varied country, but still I didn’t feel I experienced the Middle east untill I visited Sidon. When I think of the middle east I imagine exotic bazaars with the smell of spices, friendly merchants, delicious Lebanese street food and tea stalls.

The bazaar in Sidon was exactly that. With the lack of tourists it is as authentic as it can get. no souvenirs, but fresh food and vegetables, muslim fashion, barbers, meat shops, bakery’s and delicious food. Don’t miss the castle on a tiny island stretching out in the sea.

Logistics: From Beiruts cola intersection there are frequent buses to Sidon, also known as Saida (1 hour).

Lebanon Sidon
Lebanon Sidon

Daytrip to Sour: the largest Roman Hippodrome and the port of Tyre

The coastal city of Tyre is well worth a visit for it’s cosy port and the surrounding christian part of town full with colourful buildings. You can easily explore it on foot and the area is home to several nice boutique hotels and good restaurants serving delicious Lebanese cuisine.

Lebanon Tyre Sour
Lebanon Sidon

Tyre also has the largest and best preserved example of a Roman hippodrome, a stadium for horse racing and chariot racing. Actually just a large open field, but there are some well-preserved mosaics that are very beautiful.

As usual, we were the only tourists. Tyre is pretty close to Israel and there is quite a big number of Palestinian refugees. Right next to the Roman ruins was a big Palestinian refugee camp. While we were exploring the ruins we could actually hear gunshots going off in the camp. Somehow the ruins in Tyre felt less safe than our visit to Baalbek.

Logistics: From Beirut’s Cola intersection there are frequent buses to Sour/Tyre (2-3 hours)

Lebanon Tyre Sour

Daytrip to Baalbek: Exploring Roman ruins in the Bekaa valley

Another highlight was my visit to Baalbek in the Bekaa valley. One of the best preserved Roman Ruins in the Middle East. In Greek and Roman times it was called the city of the sun (Heliopolis). The acropolis consisted of several temples of which the temple of Bacchus is one of the best preserved.

A visit is well worth the effort, not only for the roman ruins, but also for the scenery in the surrounding Bekaa valley. Unfortunately it is also a Hezbollah stronghold and close to the border with Syria and therefore you should inform about the security situation at the moment. Read more about my visit and how to get to Baalbek here.

Logistics: From Beirut’s Cola intersection there are frequent buses to Baalbek (2-3 hours)

Lebanon Baalbek Bekaa valley
Lebanon Sidon

Daytrip to Bcharré: Hiking in the Qadisha valley

The Qadisha valley was definitely a highlight of my trip. A beautiful gorge valley scattered with Maronite villages, monasteries and cave churches with stunning views on the surrounding mountains. Actually this was the only place where I felt a daytrip was not enough.

Bcharré, the main town in the Qadisha valley is a charming place from where you can do several treks  to explore christian churches and monasteries in the valley below. Bcharré was also the home of famous poet Khalil Gibran. We visited the small museum dedicated to him.

Logistics: From Beiruts Dora roundabout there are buses every two hours to Bcharré (2-3 hours). The alternative is to take a bus to Tripoli and then to Bcharre.

Lebanon Qadisha valley
Lebanon Sidon

Lebanon’s delicious food

Lebanon is like heaven for a foodie like me.  There is delicious food everywhere you go. My favourite is taboulleh, the simple parsley and mint salad. Another favourite cheap snack was falaffel. Lebanese cuisine is an attraction in itself and trying out different things will bring you delicious surprises.

Lebanon Qadisha valley
Lebanon Sidon

Is Backpacking Lebanon safe?

Travelling to Lebanon is safe. However, it is good to read about Lebanons fascinating history and current politics before you go. Keep yourself updated with the latest news. Even though it is relatively safe compared to its neighbours, the political situation is fragile and complicated.

Christians, Sunni Muslims and Shia Muslims all make up about a third of the population and tensions between them do exist and flare up occasionally. Add significant numbers of Palestinian and Syrian refugees and it is actually a miracle that things are stable and quiet at the moment.

Lebanon Sidon

Be careful when visiting the following areas. Most of the times there is nothing goin on, but inform yourself about the recent events if you plan to visit.

Hezbollah areas: Hezbollah is a prime target for both ISIS and Israel. This includes the Shia neighbourhoods of Southern Beirut, the Southern border with Israel and the Bekaa valley. The first two have no tourist appeal anyway, but for the Bekaa valley read my post on visiting Baalbek. You can visit Baalbek and I did visit some Shia neighbourhoods in Beirut out of my own interest. It felt safe, but people were a bit suspicious. Although I had one of the best shawarma at a local restaurant with some of the friendliest people. Try not to stand out too much and avoid taking pictures.

Tripoli: clashes between the Sunni and Alawi Muslims are not uncommon. I did visit Tripoli and when I was there it was peaceful, but there were clashes the week before and it was still very quiet in the streets.

Refugee camps: Almost a quarter of the population in Lebanon is a refugee. Its better not to visit a refugee camp on your own. They are not tourist destinations, but if you really want to go, come with an established organisation such as the Shatila child and youth center.

Border areas: avoid getting close to the border with Syria and Israel.

Lebanon Sidon

Is backpacking Lebanon safe for solo female travellers?

For solo female travellers it is good to keep in mind that Lebanon is relatively liberal. In fact, it is not a muslim country and almost half of the population is either Cristian or atheist.

Its multicultural nature means that people are used to various traditions and cultures coexisting alongside each other. Therefore it is one of the more easy middle eastern countries to travel alone as a women.

Lebanon Beirut

Backpacking Lebanon: Accomodation 

Lebanon is not cheap to travel in and especially accomodation is costly. We decided to base ourselves in Beirut and make day trips to the places we visited. We rented a cheap appartment through Airbnb.

It was a very strange place with lots of old stuff, almost like a museum. It felt like the owners left during the civil war and never returned. The true story was even more sad. The owner married a German lady who was teaching german in Beirut and they had stayed during the civil war. The german lady only returned to Germany with her sons after her husband died a couple of years ago.

Lebanon Beirut

Backpacking Lebanon: Transport 

Travelling by public transport in Lebanon is easy. From Beirut there are frequent buses to most towns like Byblos, Sidon, Tyre, Bcharré (Qadisha valley) & Baalbek (Bekaa valley).  For destinations south of Lebanon there is the Cola intersection and for destinations north of Lebanon there is Charles Helou station.

When I was there in 2015 I paid between 2000 LBP and 3000 LBP for a bus ticket depending on the distance.

Last update: January 2019

Lebanon Sidon
Backpacking Lebanon: A backpackers travel guide with the best things to see and do in Lebanon for independent budget travellers

16 thoughts on “Backpacking Lebanon: the different faces of the middle east.”

  • Oh my, this country may not be the top of everyone’s bucket list but it certainly is on mine. I fell in love with Lebanese cuisine a couple of years ago and I’ve been intrigued about Lebanese culture and history for about the same length of time. To be honest from your photos and writing it sounds like such an amazing country to visit. So jealous!

  • A friend of mine growing up was Lebanese and the stories she told made me want to visit the place. I’ve been a bit obsessed with the Middle East since I lived in Doha, Qatar for a spell three years ago and Lebanon is most definitely on my list, particularly Beirut. Would love to see those Roman ruins one day!

  • Always a pleasure getting to know about a country that i know very little about. Thanks for the information.

  • Great post. I really want to go to Lebanon. Helpful to know that most of what you did were day trips. I’ll keep in mind that Bcharre needs more time. And helpful tips about border areas and other safety issues.

  • I’ve been wanting to visit Lebanon and appreciate your guide on safe areas. Lebanese food is my favourite so I would just eat my way through the country.

  • I would love to visit Lebanon! Beirut sounds like such a fun city, and there are so many beautiful day trips to take! How was the language barrier there?

  • I am about 25% Lebanese and have always wanted to visit in order to see it firsthand the way much of my family has. My mother always warned me about the dangers of going there, but it seems like things are safer than they were then. Is it very difficult to conversate with little command of the language or are they relatively accommodating to English speaking tourists? How long do you think is “enough” time to really get a chance to appreciate Lebanon for all of it’s many facets? i.e. cuisine, history, culture, people, etc…

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